London Fashion Week Spring 2027 ran September 17 to 21, 2026, the second stop of the Spring/Summer 2027 fashion month, and it closed with Burberry. The bigger story was who came home. Alexander McQueen returned to the London schedule after roughly 25 years of showing in Paris, with creative director Seán McGirr bringing the house back to its roots. Mulberry is back on the calendar too, after a six-year absence, now under Christopher Kane.
The runways followed a similar logic. London’s collections leaned romantic but structured, tailored but loose, and reachable. From Petra Fagerström’s first on-schedule show to Marks and Spencer’s centenary debut, the week sketched a direction built for real wardrobes, with casting that made it feel lived-in rather than staged.
Romance With a Spine: Lace, Pleats, and Soft Power
Petra Fagerström opened day two with “Swedish Summer,” only her fourth collection. The Central Saint Martins graduate and LVMH Prize finalist showed sharply cut leathers embroidered with roses, a lace slip styled with a Royal Ascot-ready hat, and a closing sequined dress worn over grungy gray denim. “I’ve always asked how clothes might give her agency: retaining the sharpness and structure of conservative dress without the obedience and purity historically attached to it,” she said after the show.
Her technical showpiece was a lenticular pleating technique, built from hundreds of hand-stitched pleats that let one garment hold two images at once. Susan Fang pushed craft in a different direction at the Barbican, showing porcelain-inspired prints, translucent beading, and 3D-printed footwear sprouting rubber flowers.
Harris Reed went all white for “Loud Whispers,” a demi-couture lineup of bespoke jacquard silks, velvet, and hand-painted organza, styled with Manolo Blahnik shoes and headwear by Stephen Jones. Ashley Graham led the cast. Reed, now five years on the London schedule, opens his first salon in the city later this year.
Tailoring Loosens Up and the Mass Market Takes the Runway
Mithridate’s Daniel Fletcher mined the 1980s New Romantics, pairing bubble-hem party skirts and corsets with pinstripe tailoring, rugby stripes, and square-toed brogues. Talia Byre worked the same tension in an everyday register, with cream knits under pinafore dresses, moiré trousers cinched by leather cummerbunds, and a footwear collaboration with Topshop due this fall.
Then the mass market moved in. Marks and Spencer staged its first official on-schedule show at the Design Museum, marking 100 years of fashion with a see-now-buy-now collection and a cast of British fashion history: Lara Stone, Karen Elson, Erin O’Connor, Jodie Kidd, and Lennon Gallagher.
The Swedish fast-fashion giant turned Olympia London into a 700-guest spectacle with creative direction by Nick Knight, a live Labrinth performance, and a lineup led by Alex Consani, Paloma Elsesser, Lila Moss, and Angelina Kendall. eBay’s Endless Runway also returned for a third year, with contributors including Daisy Edgar-Jones, Adwoa Aboah, and Charles Jeffrey selling pre-loved looks in real time as they hit the runway.
The Casting and Beauty Signals to Watch
Underneath the spectacle, the booking market sent a clear message: recognizable, multi-generational faces sold the season. Legacy supermodels anchored heritage moments, while the British Fashion Council’s NewGen pipeline pushed newer names like Pauline Dujancourt and Charlie Constantinou into breakout slots. For aspiring models, that points to polished versatility over heavy transformation.
Beauty followed the same brief. Backstage at Toga, lead hairstylist Claire Grech built glassy side parts and sleek low ponytails, while Susan Fang’s cast wore tousled braids threaded with porcelain fragments. At Petra Fagerström’s presentation, makeup leaned subtly rebellious: soft smoky eyes paired with glossy brown and terracotta lips.
With McQueen and Mulberry back in London, Spring 2027’s softened tailoring and dressed-up romance now head into campaign season, where buyers and casting directors will decide how far the direction travels before the clothes land in stores next spring.
